Busan's sea knows no season. A course where you listen to the waves over brunch at a Gijang shoreline in the early morning, catch your breath at a thousand-year-old clifftop temple, gaze at the horizon through a train window rolling along an old rail line, and arrive at a lighthouse village at dusk. The Ocean Healing Course is a day spent slowly descending from north to south along Busan's eastern coastline, collecting the sea's ever-changing expressions one by one.
Starting in Osiria and passing through Haedong Yonggungsa, Songjeong, and Cheongsapo before pausing for a cup of tea at a traditional teahouse along Dalmaji-gil, then wrapping up with a full spread of seafood at Mipo — this route works equally well by car or public transit. Recommended for travelers who want the sea to be the protagonist of their journey, not just the backdrop.
Morning Bear Osiria | Restaurant
Perched on a coastal bluff in the Osiria area of Gijang-gun, Morning Bear Osiria is a restaurant where you can enjoy brunch with the ocean directly in front of you. Made known through Instagram, the spot maintains a high rating of 4.8 on Korean restaurant platforms and is the perfect way to open the day on a high note as your first meal of the trip.
The signature menu item is pasta — amatriciana in particular gets frequent mentions. Reviewers consistently describe it as "clean and not overpowering," and the coffee quality earns high marks as well. That said, prices run a bit steep, tables are closely spaced, and the chairs have been noted as uncomfortable, so it's best to visit with the mindset of savoring the food and atmosphere in a focused, unhurried way rather than lingering over the view.
📋 Highlight Brunch pasta with ocean views (amatriciana especially recommended)
Haedong Yonggungsa | Sightseeing
A short drive from Morning Bear awaits Haedong Yonggungsa, known as the temple closest to the sea in all of Korea. Founded in 1376 by the Buddhist monk Naong, this deeply historical site has been rebuilt multiple times after suffering damage during the Japanese invasion and the Korean War. It is one of Korea's three major Avalokitesvara pilgrimage sites, with dragon head rocks and dragon sculptures arranged throughout the grounds so that the entire temple takes the shape of a dragon.
Inside the grounds stands a 10-meter-tall Haesu Gwaneum Daebul — the largest carved from a single stone in Korea — gazing out toward the sea, and as you descend the 108-step pine forest path, the sound of the waves grows ever closer. Tossing a coin from atop Yongmun Bridge while making a wish is a long-standing tradition here. Admission is also free. Be aware, however, that during daytime hours the atmosphere shifts considerably with commercial street stalls and crowds. Visitor reviews are split, noting that "it feels tranquil and spiritual at dawn, but like a theme park in the middle of the day." The gates open as early as 04:30, so a visit around sunrise is strongly recommended.
📋 Address 86 Yonggung-gil, Sirang-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun, Busan · Hours Open daily year-round 04:30–20:00 (slight seasonal variation; closes around 19:20 in winter, 20:00 in summer) / Free admission / Allow 30–90 minutes · Highlights 10m Haesu Gwaneum Daebul (largest carved from a single stone in Korea) with sea views, 108-step pine forest path, dragon-shaped temple layout with Yongduam rock and dragon sculptures, Yongmun Bridge (coin-tossing wishing spot), popular New Year's sunrise destination (around 07:25 in winter)
💡 Tips **Parking**: Paid (card only) — ₩2,000 for 30 min, ₩500 per additional 10 min, ₩20,000 daily max / **Public transit**: Subway Line 1·2 Haeundae Station → Bus 181, or Osiria Station → Bus 139/1001, alight at Yonggungsa stop, 15-min walk / **Visit tip**: Midday is crowded — **early morning sunrise visit strongly recommended** (quiet, spiritual atmosphere preserved) / Street food stalls, souvenir shops, and prayer bead vendors line the temple approach / No beverages allowed inside, comfortable shoes required (many stairs) / Expect large crowds on New Year's Day sunrise
Blue Line Park Beach Train (Songjeong Station) | Experience
Songjeong Station — whose wooden station building, constructed in 1941, is itself designated National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 302 — serves as the departure point for the Blue Line Park Beach Train. This battery-powered train travels 4.8 km of the former Donghae Nambu Line, opened in 1935, at just 15 km/h, slowly passing through the spectacular scenery of Busan's eastern coastline from Mipo through Cheongsapo to Songjeong. Rated 4.7 stars across 3,372 verified reviews on Trip.com, the essence of this route is not speed — it's time.
Visitors are moved by the very fact that "an old, closed rail line has been transformed into such a stunning ocean-view tourist train," and repeatedly describe "the feeling of slowly rolling along the beach." The Sky Capsule, operated alongside the train, features colorful open-air chairs suspended 7–10 meters above the sea, with many reviewers calling it "spectacular at sunset" — though advance reservations are essential. Departing from Songjeong Station offers a spacious parking lot with two hours of free parking, and boarding one to two hours before sunset delivers the most dramatic experience. Allow plenty of extra time during peak season and on weekends, as queues can form.
📋 Address 299-20 Songjeong-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan (Songjeong Station) / Cheongsapo Station: 116 Cheongsapo-ro, Haeundae-gu / Mipo Station: 13 Dalmaji-gil 62beon-gil, Haeundae-gu · Hours Seasonal: Nov–Feb 09:00–17:00, Mar–Apr/Oct 09:00–19:00, May–Jun/Sep 09:00–20:00, Jul–Aug 09:00–21:00. Subject to change based on peak-season ridership. 3 departures per hour (round trip approx. 50 min) · Highlights The 1940s wooden station building itself (architectural heritage · National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 302) + watching the sunset from the train + sky-capsule photo opportunities (colorful capsules, overlooking the sea from 7–10m up)
💡 Tips Departing from Songjeong Station recommended (spacious, comfortable parking lot, 2 hours free). Lower risk of full trains on weekdays departing from Songjeong. Riding the full route from start to finish is recommended over boarding mid-route. Evening golden-hour window (1–2 hours before sunset) offers the best experience. Sky Capsule requires advance reservation (from ₩48,000 one-way for 2). Strong winds may restrict access to the Daritdol Observatory.
Cheongsapo | Viewpoint
Step off at the mid-route stop after riding the Beach Train or Sky Capsule and you'll find Cheongsapo, a small fishing village famous for its pair of red and white twin lighthouses at the end of the breakwater. Standing on the glass floor of the Daritdol Observatory, you can see the waves crashing 72.5 meters directly below, and as you stroll the mural alley, the resident street cats stop you in your tracks with their signature indifference. The nickname "Cat Village" is well earned.
Cheongsapo's other star attraction is grilled shellfish. Scallops, abalone, and pen shells cooked directly over a charcoal brazier taste all the better mixed with the sea air. Visitors rave about the golden shimmer on the water and the sunsets in the evening as a prime spot for "the photo of a lifetime," though the area gets crowded and parking becomes challenging during peak season from May through October. Several reviews flag it as particularly windy, so it's worth checking in advance that the Daritdol Observatory won't be closed due to adverse weather.
📋 Address Jungdong area along Cheongsapo-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan (Cheongsapo-ro 125-1, 137, etc.) · Hours Daritdol Observatory 09:00–18:00 (until 20:00 in summer, Jun–Aug); most grilled shellfish restaurants 10:00–22:00 with late-night hours (some until 02:00); the village itself is open 24 hours year-round · Highlights Red-and-white twin lighthouses + Daritdol Observatory (glass-floor viewing platform), grilled shellfish (mainly scallops, abalone, pen shells) cooked over a charcoal brazier, Beach Train or Sky Capsule ride
💡 Tips Parking at Cheongsapo public lot costs ₩300 per 10 min (₩8,000/day), or get 2 hours free by taking the Beach Train from Songjeong Station. Departing around 3 p.m. lets you capture both the sparkling sea shimmer and the sunset, and a weekday visit helps you avoid crowds. Winds are strong — bring a jacket; the Sky Capsule interior air-conditioning is also powerful. Access via Subway Line 2 Jangsan Station (Exit 3) → town bus, or a 17-minute walk from Jungdong Station (Exit 7).
Bibibidang | Café
Tucked away on the 4th floor at 239-16 Dalmaji-gil, overlooking Cheongsapo, Bibibidang is a traditional teahouse done up in hanok style. Tea here is served in antique vessels — Goryeo celadon and Joseon white porcelain among them — making this less a café and more a place to experience traditional Korean tea culture within a contemporary setting. A selection of richly layered traditional teas, including a 15-year-fermented hwangcha (yellow tea), matcha, and goji berry tea, is offered, and every drink comes accompanied by traditional dasik (tea confections) that complete the atmosphere.
The signature dessert, sweet pumpkin bingsu (₩13,000), blends thick sweet pumpkin purée with shaved ice for a refreshing treat that leaves a lingering, gentle sweetness of kabocha. Visitors describe it as a tea house that's "lovely even on cloudy days" and "boasts an incredible view," praising the wide-open Cheongsapo ocean view and the distinct atmosphere of each private room. The taste score is an impressive 4.1, though the price point is perceived as "somewhat high" (price score: 3.0). Since the space centers on traditional teas, visitors coming purely for dessert may find it a touch disappointing. The Dalmaji-gil slope is steep, so taking a taxi from the Haeundae side is recommended.
📋 Address 239-16 Dalmaji-gil, Haeundae-gu, Busan, 4F · Hours Mon–Fri 10:30–21:30 (last order 21:00) / Sat–Sun 10:30–22:00 (last order 21:30) / Open year-round · Signature Sweet Pumpkin Bingsu (₩13,000) — thick sweet pumpkin purée and shaved ice come together for a cool, subtly sweet kabocha flavor; traditional dasik (confections) served alongside all beverages complete the atmosphere
💡 Tips Dalmaji-gil has a steep incline by car, so it's recommended to take a taxi from Haeundae Beach (approx. 9 min away), or you can drive from Jangsan Station on Subway Line 2 (18 min on foot then by car). Approx. 6 free parking spaces available on the building's 1st floor. Fairmont Hotel guests receive a 15% discount. Each room has its own distinct atmosphere, making it great for photos — one item per person required.
Mipojip Haeundae Main Branch | Restaurant
Operating at the Mipo seaside since 1976, Mipojip Haeundae Main Branch specializes in marinated seafood and stone pot rice aged in a 40-year secret fruit soy sauce. The signature Minya Haemuljang Jeongshik (₩43,000) serves fresh seafood — soy-marinated crab, abalone, shrimp, scallop, octopus, conch, and salmon — on a single tray, with the proper way to finish being a pot of nutty scorched-rice (nurungji) after the marinated seafood is gone. Visitors rave about the "fresh seafood and immaculate side dishes," with taste scores ranging from 4.2 to 4.3.
Its long history comes with a corresponding wait. Reservations can be made through the Tableiting app, and a savvy strategy is to use the break time (weekdays 15:00–17:00, weekends 15:30–16:30) to enter and place your order. Last order is at 20:00, so plan ahead for evening visits. There is no on-site parking, so use the nearby Moontan Road public parking lot. Some note that "the price feels high for the portion size," but nearly five decades of history and the freshness of ingredients sourced directly from the sea speak for themselves.
📋 Address 3 Dalmaji-gil 62beon-gil, Haeundae-gu, Busan (Jungdong 940-3, 1F) · Hours Mon–Sun 11:00–21:00 (weekday break 15:00–17:00, weekends & holidays 15:30–16:30, last order 20:00) · Signature Minya Haemuljang Jeongshik (₩43,000) — soy-marinated crab, abalone, shrimp, scallop, octopus, conch, and salmon aged in a 40-year secret soy sauce, served on a single tray. The proper way to finish is with a pot of nutty scorched-rice after the marinated seafood.
💡 Tips ⏰ Avoid peak lunch (11:00–15:00) and dinner (17:00–21:00) hours — the weekday break (15:00–17:00) and weekend break (15:30–16:30) are recommended windows. 🚗 Use the nearby Moontan Road public parking lot (no on-site parking or parking validation). 🚌 Public transit — 10 min walk from Exit 7 of Jungdong Station (Busan Line 2), or 3 min walk from Mipo Moontan Road bus stop. Reservations strongly recommended (Tableiting available) — this place gets very busy.
Beginning with the morning waves at Osiria and ending at a table by the fading light in Mipo, this itinerary is a journey that slowly reveals just how many faces Busan's sea wears over the course of a single day. There's no need to rush — this route is best completed not by covering it quickly, but by collecting as many moments of stillness in front of the sea as possible.
References (Sources)
Morning Bear Osiria — Instagram - Morning Bear Osiria Brunch Video · DiningCode - Busan Gijang Brunch Cafe Top82 · Sikshin - Osiria Tourist Complex Top 5 Restaurants
Haedong Yonggungsa — Visit Busan Official - Haedong Yonggungsa · Korea Tourism Organization - Haedong Yonggungsa · Wikipedia Korea - Haedong Yonggungsa
Blue Line Park Beach Train (Songjeong Station) — Official Site - Haeundae Blue Line Park · Fare Information Page · Operating Hours Guide
Cheongsapo — Small Joy-Filled #Cheongsapo Day Trip - Explore Korea · Busan Cheongsapo Cat Village Coexisting with Stray Cats - Explore Korea · Cheongsapo Trip Guide (2025 Busan Attractions)
Bibibibdang — Busan City Official Tourism Information · DiningCode - Bibibibdang Reviews · Triple - Bibibibdang Info
Mipojip Haeundae Main Branch — DiningCode - Mipojip Soy Sauce Crab Review · Tabling - Mipojip Haeundae Main Branch Reservation Info · Trip.com - Visitor Reviews
